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Managing Clay Pot Irrigation


For more reports about my clay pot experiences and experiments, go HERE.
Points of interest:
  • My water usage has fallen over 50% with these greater focused and considered efficiencies. Whether the plants are getting enough water remains to be seen.They are alive (we are experiencing very dry conditions) and the soil around the pots is moister than soil away from the pots...despite its sandiness.
  • Some pots -- not many -- can be fickle and will perform differently -- drain too quickly or hardly at all. I've found that it is preferable to seal the whole bottom of the pot with grout rather than to try and rely on glues and such to plug the pot drainage holes.Grout is also more reliable as a sealant. Covering the bottom completely will also reduce seepage rates by up to 25%.
  • Filling the pots is quicker than hand watering the garden. Twenty to twenty five seconds at each pot station.move on: next pot.
  • Don't put fertilizer in the pots despite what others say. Fertilizers merely coat  the pots' insides with scum and will inhibit sweating .
  • A snug lid fit  is important as it is remarkable how many critters will dive in. Cane toads especially. But the > 20 cm wide brim topped with a stoneware dinner plate (50 cents at Op shops) is a snug fit. Don't use terracotta garden pot saucers as they get too hot and are more expensive -- besides they are not  white unless you paint them.
  • If mosquito larvae occupies the pot waters, let the water dry up and then refill the pot.




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